Jean Louis


Costume Designer

About

Also Known As
Jean Louis Berthault
Birth Place
Paris, FR
Born
October 05, 1907
Died
April 20, 1997

Biography

An Academy Award nominee 14 times, Jean Louis was one of the greatest motion picture costume designers of all time, and had few equals when it came to creating gowns for the top female stars. His renown was so great that many say he defined glamour through the movies; and many of his top works, such as the "Put the Blame on Mame" gown for Rita Hayworth in "Gilda" (1946) -- which has been...

Family & Companions

Maggy Berthault
Wife
Died in 1987.
Loretta Young
Wife
Actor. Married August 10, 1993; survived him.

Notes

"He loved each one of us. He saw us as perfect the way God made us." --Carol Channing, clothed by Jean Louis for "Thoroughly Modern Millie"

"Jean felt it was important to see the woman, not the dress." --Loretta Young

Biography

An Academy Award nominee 14 times, Jean Louis was one of the greatest motion picture costume designers of all time, and had few equals when it came to creating gowns for the top female stars. His renown was so great that many say he defined glamour through the movies; and many of his top works, such as the "Put the Blame on Mame" gown for Rita Hayworth in "Gilda" (1946) -- which has been copied by every designer since -- and Marilyn Monroe's gown when she sang "Happy Birthday Mr. President" to JFK in 1962, and the flesh-colored gown Marlene Dietrich was sewn into for her Las Vegas stage debut in 1953, have become legend. Many don't recall the scripts of Loretta Young's 1950s anthology series, but few who saw the show have forgotten the 52 Jean Louis gowns she wore when she swept into the room to introduce each week's show. Jean Louis (ne Berthault) was born in France and emigrated to the U.S. in 1936 to become a chief designer for the famed Hattie Carnegie house. He began designing clothes for clients such as the Duchess of Windsor, and Hollywood stars Merle Oberon and Irene Dunne. It was Dunne who brought him another client, Joan Cohn, wife of Columbia studio head Harry Cohn. Through Mrs. Cohn's influence, Jean Louis was lured west in 1943 to become chief designer for Columbia. His first work could be seen in 1944 in such films as "Strange Cargo" and "Together Again." But after "Gilda" everyone began to take notice. Jean Louis designed Judy Holliday's gowns for "Born Yesterday" (1951), and won his only Academy Award for gowning her in "The Solid Gold Cadillac" (1956). He was the first designer to earn the screen credit "Gowns By..." Other films with his touch include Judy Garland's "A Star Is Born" (1954), "From Here to Eternity" (1953), "Pillow Talk" (1959), and his last, "Forty Carats" (1973). So extensive was Louis' dominance that his 14 Academy Award nominations included multiples in a single year -- for both black and white and color films. Whether it was Lana Turner's clinging sweaters, or Doris Day's sexy wardrobe for "Pillow Talk," his work will not be forgotten. After working for Universal in the early 60s, Jean Louis left full-time studio work. Although he would continue to freelance for pictures, he devoted most of his time to his salon in Beverly Hills, where clients included Nancy Reagan. He later retired to Palm Springs in 1988. In 1993, six years after the death of his first wife, Louis married former client Loretta Young.

Filmography

 

Cast (Feature Film)

A Virgin Named Mary (1975)
Man Of The East (1971)
House of Cards (1969)
Driot
Treasure of San Gennaro (1968)

Costume-Wardrobe (Feature Film)

Lost Horizon (1972)
Costumes
Marlowe (1969)
Gayle hunnicutt's gowns & furs
The Ballad of Josie (1968)
Gowns
P. J. (1968)
Gowns
Don't Just Stand There! (1968)
Gowns Designer
The Hell With Heroes (1968)
Wardrobe Designer
Banning (1967)
Gowns
Rosie (1967)
Gowns
Guess Who's Coming to Dinner (1967)
Wardrobe Supervisor
Thoroughly Modern Millie (1967)
Gowns Designer
Gambit (1966)
Gowns Designer
Blindfold (1966)
Gowns Designer by
Madame X (1966)
Gowns Designer
A Man Could Get Killed (1966)
Miss Dee's Wardrobe
Strange Bedfellows (1965)
Gina lollobrigida's gowns Designer
Mirage (1965)
Gowns Designer
Ship of Fools (1965)
Miss Leigh's clothes
Bus Riley's Back in Town (1965)
Ann-Margret's gowns Designer
That Funny Feeling (1965)
Gowns Designer
Send Me No Flowers (1964)
Gowns
I'd Rather Be Rich (1964)
Gowns Designer
Bedtime Story (1964)
Gowns Designer
The Thrill of It All (1963)
Gowns Designer
For Love or Money (1963)
Gowns
If a Man Answers (1962)
Gowns Designer
Judgment at Nuremberg (1961)
Miss Dietrich's gowns
Back Street (1961)
Gowns Designer
Portrait in Black (1960)
Gowns
Song Without End (1960)
Costumes
Strangers When We Meet (1960)
Gowns
Who Was That Lady? (1960)
Gowns
Pillow Talk (1959)
Gowns for Miss Doris Day
The Last Angry Man (1959)
Gowns
Bell, Book and Candle (1959)
Gowns
Imitation of Life (1959)
Gowns for Lana Turner
Suddenly, Last Summer (1959)
Miss Taylor's Wardrobe
Middle of the Night (1959)
Miss Novak's clothes
The Last Hurrah (1958)
Gowns
Nightfall (1957)
Wardrobe
The Story of Esther Costello (1957)
Miss Crawford's gowns by
3:10 to Yuma (1957)
Gowns
Pal Joey (1957)
Gowns
Jeanne Eagels (1957)
Gowns
The Garment Jungle (1957)
Gowns
The Monte Carlo Story (1957)
Gowns for Miss Dietrich Designer
The Brothers Rico (1957)
Gowns
You Can't Run Away From It (1956)
Gowns
The Eddy Duchin Story (1956)
Gowns
Over-Exposed (1956)
Gowns
Jubal (1956)
Gowns
The Solid Gold Cadillac (1956)
Gowns
Autumn Leaves (1956)
Gowns
5 Against the House (1955)
Gowns
Queen Bee (1955)
Gowns
Count Three and Pray (1955)
Gowns
Picnic (1955)
Gowns
Tight Spot (1955)
Gowns
Three for the Show (1955)
Gowns
The Violent Men (1955)
Gowns
My Sister Eileen (1955)
Gowns
The Long Gray Line (1955)
Gowns
Miss Sadie Thompson (1954)
Gowns
It Should Happen to You (1954)
Gowns
Pushover (1954)
Gowns
Phffft (1954)
Gowns
Bad for Each Other (1954)
Gowns
A Star Is Born (1954)
Costume Design
Human Desire (1954)
Gowns
The Caine Mutiny (1954)
Gowns
Serpent of the Nile (1953)
Miss Fleming's gowns
Let's Do It Again (1953)
Gowns
From Here to Eternity (1953)
Gowns
The Four Poster (1953)
Miss Palmer's gowns
The Big Heat (1953)
Gowns
Salome (1953)
Gowns
The 5000 Fingers of Dr. T (1953)
Miss Healy's gowns by
The First Time (1952)
Gowns
Affair in Trinidad (1952)
Gowns
Captain Pirate (1952)
Gowns
The Happy Time (1952)
Gowns
The Golden Hawk (1952)
Gowns
Scandal Sheet (1952)
Gowns
Paula (1952)
Miss Young's gowns
The Marrying Kind (1952)
Gowns
The Brigand (1952)
Gowns
Never Trust a Gambler (1951)
Gowns
Two of a Kind (1951)
Gowns
Lorna Doone (1951)
Gowns
The Texas Rangers (1951)
Gowns
The Son of Dr. Jekyll (1951)
Gowns
The Brave Bulls (1951)
Gowns
The Flying Missile (1951)
Miss Lindfors gowns
The Family Secret (1951)
Gowns
Saturday's Hero (1951)
Gowns
Ten Tall Men (1951)
Gowns
Mask of the Avenger (1951)
Gowns
The Magic Carpet (1951)
Gowns
Between Midnight and Dawn (1950)
Gowns
The Fuller Brush Girl (1950)
Gowns
In a Lonely Place (1950)
Gowns
Born Yesterday (1950)
Gowns
Kill the Umpire (1950)
Gowns
A Woman of Distinction (1950)
Gowns
No Sad Songs for Me (1950)
Gowns
All the King's Men (1950)
Gowns
He's a Cockeyed Wonder (1950)
Gowns
Jolson Sings Again (1950)
Gowns
Cargo to Capetown (1950)
Dress by
Emergency Wedding (1950)
Gowns
The Petty Girl (1950)
Gowns
The Traveling Saleswoman (1950)
Gowns
Rogues of Sherwood Forest (1950)
Gowns
The Killer That Stalked New York (1950)
Gowns
Father Is a Bachelor (1950)
Gowns
Fortunes of Captain Blood (1950)
Gowns
The Good Humor Man (1950)
Gowns
Tokyo Joe (1949)
Gowns
Anna Lucasta (1949)
Gowns
And Baby Makes Three (1949)
Gowns
Miss Grant Takes Richmond (1949)
Gowns
Slightly French (1949)
Gowns
The Walking Hills (1949)
Miss Raines' Wardrobe
Johnny Allegro (1949)
Gowns
Mr. Soft Touch (1949)
Miss Keyes' Wardrobe by
Knock on Any Door (1949)
Gowns
The Reckless Moment (1949)
Gowns
We Were Strangers (1949)
Miss Jones' Costume by
The Dark Past (1949)
Gowns
You Gotta Stay Happy (1949)
Miss Fontaine's gowns by
The Undercover Man (1949)
Gowns
Lust for Gold (1949)
Miss Lupino's Wardrobe by
Shockproof (1949)
Gowns
Tell It to the Judge (1949)
Gowns
The Loves of Carmen (1948)
Gowns
The Gallant Blade (1948)
Gowns
The Black Arrow (1948)
Gowns
Lulu Belle (1948)
Miss Lamour's Costume
The Fuller Brush Man (1948)
Gowns
The Man from Colorado (1948)
Costumes
To the Ends of the Earth (1948)
Gowns
The Return of October (1948)
Gowns
The Sign of the Ram (1948)
Gowns
Relentless (1948)
Costumes
The Mating of Millie (1948)
Gowns
The Lady from Shanghai (1948)
Gowns
I Love Trouble (1948)
Gowns
The Jolson Story (1947)
Gowns
Dead Reckoning (1947)
Gowns
The Guilt of Janet Ames (1947)
Gowns
Her Husband's Affairs (1947)
Gowns
It Had to Be You (1947)
Gowns
Mr. District Attorney (1947)
Gowns
The Swordsman (1947)
Gowns
Down to Earth (1947)
Gowns
Johnny O'Clock (1947)
Gowns
The Corpse Came C.O.D. (1947)
Gowns
Framed (1947)
Gowns
Gallant Journey (1946)
Gowns
The Gentleman Misbehaves (1946)
Gowns
Gilda (1946)
Gowns
Meet Me on Broadway (1946)
Gowns
Renegades (1946)
Gowns
The Walls Came Tumbling Down (1946)
Gowns
The Bandit of Sherwood Forest (1946)
Costumes
Perilous Holiday (1946)
Gowns
Tomorrow Is Forever (1946)
Costumes
The Kid from Brooklyn (1946)
Clothes Designer
The Return of Monte Cristo (1946)
Gowns
The Thrill of Brazil (1946)
Gowns
She Wouldn't Say Yes (1945)
Gowns by
Kiss and Tell (1945)
Gowns
Leave It to Blondie (1945)
Gowns
Over 21 (1945)
Gowns
A Thousand and One Nights (1945)
Costumes
Tonight and Every Night (1945)
Gowns and costs
One Way to Love (1945)
Gowns
Together Again (1944)
Gowns
Secret Command (1944)
Gowns
Strange Affair (1944)
Gowns
Carolina Blues (1944)
Gowns
The Impatient Years (1944)
Gowns

Cast (Special)

Supermodel of the World (1987)

Costume-Wardrobe (Special)

Marilyn Monroe: The Final Days (2001)
Costumes

Life Events

1936

Moved to USA from France

1936

Was lead designer for Hattie Carnegie in New York

1943

Named chief designer at Columbia Pictures

1946

Designed the famous strapless gown worn by Rita Hayworth in "Gilda"

1953

Designed Marlene Dietrich's famous flesh-colored gown for her Las Vegas debut

1962

Designed the dress Marilyn Monroe wore at Madison Square Garden to serenade President Kennedy on his birthday

Videos

Movie Clip

Trailer

Pal Joey - (Original Trailer) Get a lesson in "Joey's Jargon" from Frank Sinatra himself, on the set of Pal Joey (1957).
Story of Esther Costello, The - (Original Trailer) A bitter divorcee (Joan Crawford) works to educate a deaf and blind girl in The Story of Esther Costello (1957).
Thoroughly Modern Millie - (Wide release trailer) When she comes to New York, Julie Andrews becomes Thoroughly Modern Millie (1967), a musical set in the Roaring Twenties.
Happy Time, The - (Original Trailer) A Canadian patriarch (Charles Boyer) fights to keep his wayward brother (Louis Jordan) from leading his son astray in The Happy Time (1952).
Gilda - (Re-issue Trailer) A gambler (Glenn Ford) discovers an old flame (Rita Hayworth) in South America, but she's married to his new boss, in Gilda, 1946.
Garment Jungle, The - (Original Trailer) A dress manufacturer (Lee J. Cobb) brings in the mob to fight unionization in The Garment Jungle (1957).
Fuller Brush Girl, The - (Re-issue Trailer) Lucille Ball stars as a daffy door-to-door saleswoman who blunders into a murder investigation in The Fuller Brush Girl (1950).
Bell Book and Candle - (Original Trailer) Beautiful witch Kim Novak places a love spell on James Stewart in the comedy Bell Book And Candle (1959) also starring Jack Lemmon.
Johnny Allegro - (Original Trailer) A reformed hoodlum (George Raft) gets mixed up with counterfeiters and a deadly manhunt in Johnny Allegro (1949).
Pillow Talk - (Original Trailer) Doris Day and Rock Hudson give each other interference on their shared telephone line in Pillow Talk (1959).
Assignment - Paris - (Original Trailer) Dana Andrews is a foreign correspondent searching for leads in Communist Hungary in Assignment - Paris (1952).
And Baby Makes Three - (Re-issue Trailer) Barbara Hale and ex-husband Robert Young battle over their unborn baby in the comedy And Baby Makes Three (1949).

Family

Louis Berthault
Father
Mathilde Berthault
Mother
Adrian Berthault
Brother
Older; survived him.

Companions

Maggy Berthault
Wife
Died in 1987.
Loretta Young
Wife
Actor. Married August 10, 1993; survived him.

Bibliography

Notes

"He loved each one of us. He saw us as perfect the way God made us." --Carol Channing, clothed by Jean Louis for "Thoroughly Modern Millie"

"Jean felt it was important to see the woman, not the dress." --Loretta Young

Louis donated his 1956 Oscar to a French museum.

For many years the secret of how Rita Hayworth's "Gilda" gown remained in place even when she lifted her arms was a mystery. Louis revealed the secret to People magazine in 1987: plastic molding inside the top.